Alcohol stoves are cheap, lightweight alternate options to commercial backpacking stoves. In case your camp cooking is extra sophisticated than that, or if you need to cook for greater than 1 individual, this stove will not be for you. They are used primarily for boiling water to rehydrate dehydrated meals.
In my quest for the perfect alcohol stove, I’ve experimented with several designs. My very own hardly-scientific tests show that it boils water sooner than another alcohol stove I’ve tried. I call it the Yaas stove, since it’s Yet one more Alcohol Stove. After studying how these stoves operate, I designed my very own.
The Yaas stove works on the identical principle because the Cat stove and the Pika Stove. And is a variation of the Sqrl Stove. It weights about 1/2 as a lot as the Cat stove.
Brian Robinson, whose father designed the Cat stove, explains why chimney fashion alcohol stoves, such because the Cat stove and Yaas stove, work higher than pressurized alcohol stoves.
The vent holes in my Cat stove are too giant, causing the Cat stove to leak gasoline if a full ounce of gas is poured into it. It’s best to conduct your personal exams earlier than utilizing this stove within the again country. With 1 ounce of gas I used to be in a position to carry 2 cups of water to a rolling boil in about four minutes 20 seconds. The Yaas stove burns as sizzling as a Cat stove, however will hold 2 ounces of fuel. There are many elements that affect boiling times and fuel requirements.
After this web page was posted, I was contacted by Deems Burton, the designer of the Pika stove. After some dialogue we agreed that whereas the Yaas stove may burn hotter than his Pika stove, and bring water to a boil quicker, the Pika stove uses much less fuel. If you’re searching for a gas environment friendly alcohol stove, and are prepared to wait a minute or two longer for water to boil, the Pika stove can be a greater stove for you.
[Replace] I’ve not too long ago tried altering the scale of the highest vent gap on the Yaas stove. I have been ready to cut back the amount of fuel needed to bring water to a boil, though I haven’t reached the efficiency of the Pike stove. Which means that the quantity of fuel wanted could be lowered, although 1/2 ounce of fuel was not sufficient to deliver the water to a boil. My hardly scientific tests present that with a 1 1/2 inch or 1 1/four inch vent hole, the Yaas stove will convey two cups of water to a rolling boil in about 5 1/2 minutes on one ounce of gasoline, and will continue burning for one minute longer. With a 1 inch vent hole, the Yaas stove does not put out enough heat to carry water to a boil. The brand new template has a pattern for slicing a smaller top vent hole.
The Yaas stove is designed to burn denatured alcohol only. White fuel is not going to burn hot enough in this stove to boil water. Ok, it’d, however I am not going to try it. Attempting to burn different fuels, such as white gas, will end in a large orange flame that makes a sooty mess.
As a result of alcohol stoves cannot be shut off mechanically, it’s best to use the same precautions with an alcohol stove that you would with any open flame within the backcountry. Alcohol stoves will not be allowed in areas that have restrictions on fires, and may not be protected in excessive winds.
Three 12 oz aluminum pop cans.
The Yaas stove template.
Epoxy (optional).
Fiberglass insulation.
Additionally:
Various scraps of wooden, or other items that may stack up to 7/8 inch tall and 1 7/16 tall respectively.
Step 1: Minimize out the burner hole.
Stand one of the pop cans backside facet up. Use the knife to score the can around the inside of the ridge on the underside of the can.
Rating an X inside this circle.
Minimize along every score from the middle of the can to the ridge.
Break out the 4 items leaving a spherical hole.
Step 2: Cut down two of the cans.
Cut the pop can with the burner gap down to 7/8 inches tall from the underside. Cut the opposite can 1 7/sixteen inch tall from the underside of the can.
One of the best solution to mark the place to cut the cans is to search out one thing that’s the right peak, or several objects that may stack up to the proper peak. Minimize the can alongside this mark with scissors. Or continue rotating the can till the knife point cuts through the can. Place the flat facet of the utility knife on top if these items with the purpose barely hanging over. Stand the can next to the knife point, and rotate the can while pushing it into the knife level.
In this illustration I’m utilizing a scrap of 1 x 4 on top of a scrap of 1/8 inch masonite. To measure the bottom I use two items of 1 x 4 and set the can on prime of a scrap of 1/16 inch sheet metallic subsequent to them. 3/4 + 3/4 – 1/16 = 23/16 = 1-7/16.
An alternate is use the strips on web page 2 of the template. Reduce the can alongside the top edge of the strip. Wrap it round one of the pop cans and tape down the end. This methodology is much less accurate, so it should only be used if you can’t accurately measure the heights of the cans in one other manner. Tape the highest edge in place. For each can cut out one of the strips. Stand the can up on a table high and slide the strip down until it rests on the desk.
Step 3: Stretch the bottom can.
The can with the burner hole must fit inside of the taller can without ripping it. Rotate it. Twist it. Push it in. Pull it out. Don’t try to stretch the base abruptly. Take the third can, which has not been lower down, and work the underside of it into the opening of the base can. If you’re employed too quick, you’ll damage the base. Stretch out the first 1/2 inch of the opening of the base can just sufficient to permit the highest can to suit inside of it.
The bottom can can also be stretched be inserting it on its side on prime of fabric that has some give. Place the end of a dowel inside the can. Slide the dowel across the perimeter of the whereas pushing down, inflicting the can to roll.
Step 4: Punch holes.
Minimize out every of the strips on page 1 of the template. Wrap the narrower strip around the top can with the indicated edge of the strip alongside the lower edge of the can. Wrap the wider strip round the bottom can with the indicated edge of the strip alongside the lower edge of the can.
Punch holes as indicated by the marks on every strip. Remove every strip.
Step 5: Minimize teeth in the top can.
The underside of each hole in the highest can ought to be lower out with scissors. It will end in a row of “teeth” along the reduce edge of the can.
Lower one of the “teeth” shorter than the others. This may make it easier to fit the 2 pieces collectively.
Step 6: Pre-match the pieces.
Working from the facet reverse the shortest “tooth,” slide the highest piece inside of the bottom piece. Watch out to not cut up the bottom can. Make sure that the items fit and the holes line up.
Step 7: Epoxy the items together.
The stove will function just positive without the items being epoxied together. Epoxying the stove collectively will add to its strength.
Pull the 2 items apart, then apply a skinny coat of epoxy to each of the “teeth” on the highest can. Working from the side opposite the shortest “tooth,” slide the top piece back into the bottom, making sure that the holes line up.
Step 8: Fill with fiberglass insulation.
Minimize a piece if fiberglass insulation large sufficient to fill the bottom of the stove up to the underside of the holes. Insert the fiberglass insulation inside of the stove. Watch out not to block any of the holes.
You could need to trim a few of the fiberglass from the underside heart of the piece of insulation to permit it to fit over the bump in the underside of the stove. All the items will hold collectively after the stove has been used the first time. If there are thin spots in the insulation, they are often stuffed in with scraps.
The stove is complete.
The stove needs to be used with a pot stand and wind display screen. The amount of alcohol wanted will range relying on the quantity of water being boiled and environmental circumstances resembling ambient temperature, water temperature, wind, etc. Gentle the alcohol. Place the pot stand over the stove. Place the pot on the pot stand. Place the wind screen across the stove. To function the stove, fill it with 1 ounce of denatured alcohol.
Directions for building a wind display may be discovered on the web. I staple the joints, and that i punch holes each 1/2 inch. I just like the windscreen design offered by Sgt. Rock. I make two modifications.
Instructions for constructing a pot stand might be discovered here.
One more Pot Stand
The stand can be constructed taller or shorter, but ought to be built to suit inside of your pot when folded. These directions will make a stand 3-1/four inches tall and small sufficient to suit inside of a pot with a 5-1/2 inch diameter.
The stand is constructed with coat hanger wire. Variations within the diameter of coat hanger wire will have an effect on how properly this pot stand design works.
Supplies:
Wire coat hanger.
3/16 inch aluminum tubing, accessible at hobby retailers. (The exact diameter of the tubing will rely upon the gauge of the coat hanger wire. Use the biggest diameter tube that two items of hanger wire cannot match into with out flattening the tube.)
Three spent .22 caliber shells. Epoxy.
Instruments:
Pliers.
Wire cutters.
Tube cutter.
Pen.
Ruler.
Scratch paper.
Hammer or vice.
Step 1: Put together the hanger.
Minimize the hook off of the hanger and straighten the hanger wire.
Step 2: Bending to shape.
Make a mark three inches from one end of the hanger wire.
Utilizing pliers, bend the wire on the mark to about ninety levels.
Make a mark three inches from the outside of the bend.
Use pliers to bend the wire at this mark to about ninety levels.
Measure from the tip of the wire to the outside of the primary bend.
Use this measure to mark the place to chop the wire in order that both legs shall be the same length.
Cut the wire at this level.
Bend and reduce a second piece of wire to match the primary piece.
Reshape each wire pieces so that each angle is slightly greater than 90 levels.
Step 3: Putting it together.
Measure from one finish of the wire to the inside of the primary bend. Reduce a bit of aluminum tubing to this size.
The tubing will have to be flattened barely into an oval form. You possibly can flatten it in a vice, or tap it frivolously with a hammer down the length of the tube on each sides of the tube.
Insert one finish of 1 piece of wire into the tube till the tip of the tube reaches the first bend in the wire.
Do the same with the second piece of wire, inserting the tip of the wire into the same finish of the tube. It’s going to take some effort to get each wires into the tube. The tube ought to hold each wires tightly while allowing them to pivot. Push all of them the best way in, however not far enough to cause the top of the tube to flair. The tube will act as a hinge permitting the stand to be folded and unfolded. The ends of the wires should both be flush with the tip of the tube. This ought to be a very snug fit.
Step 4: Apply toes.
This step is non-compulsory. You probably have used a heavier coat hanger wire, you will have to make use of a tube larger than 3/16 inch, and a .22 caliber shell foot is not going to match over the tube.
Each wire now has one end within the aluminum tube and one finish free. Fill one of the spent .22 caliber shells with epoxy and push the free end of one of the wires into the shell. Let the epoxy set. Take away any excess epoxy.
Do the identical for the opposite free leg.
Utilizing pliers, slightly flatten the remaining .22 caliber shell so that it’s going to slip over the flattened aluminum tube. Take away any excess epoxy. Fill this shell about 1/2 full of epoxy, and push the tip of the aluminum tube into it. Because the epoxy sets, fold and unfold the stand a couple of instances to forestall the epoxy from inflicting the wires to seize inside of the aluminum tube.
The pot stand is full.
To make use of the stand, simply unfold it so that the top varieties two sides of an equilateral triangle.
To pack the stand, fold the legs collectively and place it in the bottom of your pot.
[replace] After utilizing this pot stand in the field, I’ve concluded that 1) the ft serve no actual purpose, and 2) the stand will not be as stable as I would have favored. I’d like to find one other design that’s as easy and still matches inside my pot when folded down.
